The route
From La Nouvelle, walk through the îlet (hamlet), then join the rampart on a trail that begins a long descent towards the Rivière des Galets. This first part is fairly steep, with a few slippery passages, narrow sections fitted with handrails and several long ladders. The trail eventually reaches the banks of the Rivière des Galets, which you ford. Depending on the water level, you may have to walk straight through the river.
After the crossing, the route climbs steeply to the col du Bronchard, winning back much of the height lost on the way down. Once over the pass, the trail becomes more pleasant and shaded, notably under the filao (casuarina) trees, all the way to Roche Plate. Arriving by the school is a chance to take a break and refill your water before carrying on.
From Roche Plate, follow the signs for Trois Roches. This stretch is hotter, with many short climbs and descents. The trail runs along the rampart through drier vegetation before gradually reaching the Rivière des Galets area. You then see the canyon and the filaos around the Trois Roches waterfall, one of Mafate's landmark sites.
The waterfall sits by three huge boulders that gave the place its name. A rocky ledge lets you get close to the falls, but take care on the rocks, which can be slippery. When the Rivière des Galets runs low, you can cool off in some spots around the waterfall.
After Trois Roches, the trail climbs gradually towards the Plaine aux Sables. This part gains height and gives superb views of Gros Morne and Morne de Fourche. Crossing the Plaine aux Sables is fairly easy going and makes a good transition before the last challenge of the route.
From the Plaine aux Sables, the trail begins the final climb back to La Nouvelle. The slope steepens, and the last pull can feel very long after several hours of walking. Once at the top, the first Creole houses of La Nouvelle come into view and mark the end of this big loop through the Mafate cirque.
To extend the route, you can add a detour to Îlet Cerneau from La Nouvelle or, to shorten it, go by the Roche Plate chapel. The fittest hikers can also carry on from La Nouvelle to the Plaine des Tamarins and the Col des Bœufs.
Where to stay
RandoMafate lists 17 places to stay in La Nouvelle, 10 in Roche Plate and one on the Plaine aux Sables. Roche Plate makes a good stop to split the loop over two days.
Good to know
Before heading down to the Rivière des Galets, open RandoMafate: hikers who went before you flag flooded ravines and muddy passages at the exact spot, and Météo-France weather warnings reach you as notifications. Download the Mafate map before you set off too: it stays available offline deep in the cirque.
No road reaches La Nouvelle: to walk down from the Col des Bœufs, see La Nouvelle from Col des Bœufs.
Plan this hike in RandoMafate
The trail map offline, elevation to the metre, ONF closures and the weather for the day, and the people close to you told when you set off and when you are back.